Blog Post #14 – Brilliant Colors of Fall Leaves in the Cranberry Mountain Wilderness of West Virginia

October 11 – 16, 2023

We intended to start our fall journey early in the color-changing season, mid-September, and head to Maine.  However, circumstances prevented us from leaving until mid-October.  Our plans changed to visit West Virginia’s fall colors in the Allegheny Mountains.         

Hundreds of pictures of the dazzling colors filled our camera.  But, like Mike said, “You can take all of the pictures you want, but it will never be as good as seeing it in person.”

West Virginia area we visited.
We headed south on Highway 19 to Summersville and west to Richwood, West Virginia.
Our first campsite for two nights was Summit Lake Campground (circled in green on the map).

It’s a nice campground close to a lake, but we didn’t stay there long enough to see the lake. A lot of campers were there. Eventually, we moved to a quieter campground. 

We began our exploration by stopping at the Richwood Visitor Center. (underlined in orange) The attendant gave me brochures regarding sights to see in the Cranberry Wilderness of the Monongahela National Forest. 
Someone important must have lived in this majestic house next to the church.
It had the prettiest church I think I have ever seen.

Entrance

Bell Tower

Stained glass windows

Following the map, we continued down Highway 39 through the Monongahela National Forest, admiring the colors of the trees on either side of the road and the North Fork Cherry River that ran alongside it. (line of orange indicating route). 

Little roads, off the beaten track, draw my curiosity.  So, when we approached one that seemed to go to the river, I had Mike turn. It was a beautiful spot and must have been someone’s camp or house.
Highland Scenic Highway

The next day, we decided to explore the Highland Scenic Highway, and we might find a quieter place to camp. Our first stop was the Gauley Ranger District.  The rangers gave us suggestions for dispersed campsites in the area. They told us about some established ones and said anywhere off the highway that we saw a fire ring was okay to camp. Looking at the map, we were interested in the Day Run campsites. 

Important reminder.

We turned north from Highway 39 onto Hwy 150, Highland Scenic Highway, which loops with Forest Road 216.  Both lead to Day Run campground sites.  We came to a junction for the two route options. Then, we turned right onto Forest Road 216, which parallels the Williams River.  The forest road is a narrow dirt road. Despite this, it is a smooth and easy drive. Nevertheless, we were glad we didn’t have the camper behind us.  We enjoyed the beautiful scenery. 

The river seemed almost dry for several of the first miles. 

The river became broader and deeper, dotted with tiny waterfalls running over the rocks as the road dropped about 1500 feet along the mountain road.  People were fishing and camping on the bank.

Day Run campsites are lined along Forest Road 216 and the river.

We spotted one or two campsites along the river that our camper could fit.  But when we reached the northern junction with Hwy 150, four campsites were gathered in a semi-circle.  We could easily pull the camper up Hwy 150, a paved and two-lane road, into site #24. (see green arrow on map)

The next day, we decided to explore the east side of the Highland Scenic Highway toward Marlington, West Virginia. 

Little Laurel Overlook

Little Laurel Overlook, in my opinion, is the prettiest view.

Onward down the trail

Mike’s favorite fall colors are the deep red, almost purple like this tree behind a group of bushes called ‘burning’ bushes.
Little bees enjoying the last bit of nectar of the season.
A rock wall as colorful as the leaves.
With a remnant from spring – trickling water along the mountain rocks.

A rest area at Highway 150 and Forest Road 86 junction overlooks the Williams River.

Another of Mike’s red trees
Deep Willams River

Apple Trees surround our Day Run Campsite

We moved our trailer to Day Run campsite #24. It wasn’t next to the river. Instead, it had a good solar collection and was level.  Apple trees heavy with fruit surrounded our campsite.

We gathered a few of the many apples that fell off the tree onto the table.

Our campsite

The Falls of Hills Creek and the Cranberry Glades Botanical Area are Two Areas to Visit.

Falls of Hills Creek

We walked along the trail to Hills Creek to three waterfalls the next day. The trail is a reasonably easy walk, including 382 steps in a series of stairways going down 220 feet to the lower falls.  Most of it is boardwalks, some steel steps, and many overlooks to rest and see the three falls.

Bridge and Boardwalk

Lower Falls

Middle Falls

Upper Falls

Cranberry Mountain Nature Center sign on the building

Noticing in the brochure that the Visitors Center is not always open, we diligently checked in the morning as we passed by and saw that it was open.  So that afternoon, around 4:20 p.m., we pulled into the parking lot and saw a big sign, “CLOSED FOR THE SEASON.”  What?!!! That sign wasn’t there in the morning.  People were still going in and out of the building, so we hurried in.  They were closing in 10 minutes until next May.  The Nature Center is open from May until October. We just made it, took a quick look around the exhibits, and spoke with the volunteers and rangers.  It would have been interesting to learn more from them.

We did notice several species of snakes in the exhibit tanks.  Mike asked a volunteer what happens to the snakes when the building is closed.  The volunteer said that someone was assigned to take care of the snakes, and he was glad it wasn’t him! During the open season, a live snake information show is held on Sundays.  That would have been informative.

The weather forecast said rain would continue in the next few days.  We needed to get some sightseeing done. The next day, our first stop was the Cranberry Nature Interpretive Trail behind the Nature Center.

There are two loops.  We started on the Loop 2 trail.  It is an easy 2,200-foot walk with interpretive signs pointing out native trees in the area. 

Along the way is a pleasant stop for a rest, reflection, or even a picnic lunch overlooking Stamping Creek. 

If it hadn’t been such a foggy day, we could have glimpsed the Virginia Mountains in the distance.
Many of the trees are this big.
Ground Fern

These look like mini pine trees but are from the Clubmoss family.  Early settlers gathered these to make Christmas garlands.  However, the popularity of this practice has almost decimated the plants because they are slow-growing.

Our walk continued through the 800-foot Loop 1.
When you stop often and look, you see amazing things in the woods. Mike and I like to take our time.
Floating leaves

Fungi that look like crystals

Shelf mushrooms

An example of tunneling bees
Little bird

Cranberry Glades Botanical Trail

Next, we drove the short distance to the Cranberry Glades Trail.

The 750-acre bog is a National Natural Landmark. 

Acidic wetlands and bogs are usually found in Canada and the northern United States.  The half-mile trail was an easy walk through the Glades.  Here also, interpretive plaques identified plants and trees along the way. During the fall, the cranberry plants are dry.  Nevertheless, the views were amazing.  A couple and their photographer used the Cranberry Glades as a stunning backdrop for their engagement photos.

We finished this trail just in time as the rain started.  It’s time to return to camp and grill steaks inside instead of outside. Oh well, they were delicious anyway!

Rainy weather changes plans.

The rain continued the next day.  We scrapped our plans for two more hikes and took another drive. We still got lovely photographs, but the color of the leaves was dimmer.

Remember Mike’s favorite bright red tree?  The weather was colder, and wet weather dimmed the colors of the trees.

More rain is in sight!

What do you do in the evenings when it’s cold and rainy outside, and cell phone service with internet is unavailable (which can be expected in National Forests)? Read and go to bed early.

A Visit to Pearl S. Buck Homesite

We didn’t want to leave the area yet.  We had lots more to see.  So, the next day, we went to Hillsboro, West Virginia.   The map showed the town was the birthplace of Pearl S. Buck.  The home she was born in is now a museum.

As usual, we pulled up, and the sign said, “CLOSED for the Season.” UGH!
I exited the van and walked around the grounds, taking pictures of her mother’s house.

A lady drove up and asked if I needed something.  I told her I was disappointed to find the museum closed but trying to make the best of the situation.  She made it much better.  Phyliss was the administrator for the museum, coming back to finish preparing it for the winter, and said she would give us a condensed tour for a little donation. 

It was wonderful.  She is so knowledgeable about the life and work of Pearl S. Buck, her family history, and the homestead itself. 

A little house history – Pearl S. Buck was the daughter of missionaries who worked in China.  She was the only child of her parents born in the house.  Her mother’s relatives, artisans from Holland, built the whole house and crafted everything.  All her mother’s relatives lived in and used the home at one time or another.  Ms. Buck wrote the story of the home, “My Mother’s House.” 

I couldn’t take pictures of the inside of the house, but if you are ever in the area, I suggest you take a tour and learn more about the amazing Pearl S. Buck.

Her father’s house was moved to the area.

Here is a little information about the author.

In a time when only men were recognized as authors, Pearl S. Buck ended up publishing over 2000 pieces of work – novels, magazine articles, children’s books, and more.  Most were based on life in China and the work she and her parents did as missionaries.  She was an advocate of controversial topics before her time writing about women’s rights, sexual discrimination, and racism.

Two other topics close to Ms. Buck’s heart and family, which she advocated, were the rights of people with disabilities and the plight of mixed-raced Asian children who were discarded as orphans.  Her only biological child, a daughter, was born with severe disabilities as a result of Phenylketonuria (PKU).  She adopted her second daughter, a Chinese orphan.  In the United States, she opened an international non-profit adoption agency, Pearl S. Buck International, located in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, and is still operating today.

Mike said this was my lucky day.  Yes, I am genuinely grateful to have had this experience, which opened my eyes and mind to Pearl S. Buck.

The weather was not predicted to improve in West Virginia for the next few days. We headed east down the trail to Virginia.

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