March 25 – April 9, 2024
This post is long, but Land Between the Lakes is a unique hidden gem.
If you’ve lived all your life as generations before you in a town as lovely as its name, Golden Pond, in the foothills of Kentucky, and the government says you must move, sadness, discouragement, and anger are feelings you would have.
Many people move away from their hometown by choice but return as they will to visit family and friends. However, in this instance, everyone’s life was upended. The places and people you are most familiar with must go away. . Your whole family – core and extended, neighbors, school friends, and co-workers must scatter. The familiar grocery store, bank, post office, barbershop, dress shop, library, medical offices, and work places must be eliminated.
But they weren’t the only ones whose lives were shaken throughout history.
History – Land for a Few or Land for All?
Beginning in 10,000 BC, people moved into the land between two great rivers – later named the Cumberland River and the Tennessee River. They formed small communities in the fertile land, later known as Between the Rivers. The population, now identified as Native Americans, grew as they began farming, hunting, clearing the land, and creating tribal villages until 1000 AD. Bison and elk also thrived in the area. For Native Americans, land was not owned by individuals. Work was shared for the good of the community.
During the 16th century, European explorers began to pass through the area. The Native Americans did not anticipate the newcomers would eventually take over their land. So, they selflessly shared their homes, knowledge, and skills in farming and hunting. However, the European’s goals were to acquire territory and wealth. Work was for individual benefit. Conflict ensued between the two cultures. Native Americans were pushed away from the land and further to the west. By the 1800s, bison and elk were also gone from the area.
Close-knit Communities
By the mid-1800s, families that settled into Between the Rivers embraced more of the original inhabitant’s philosophy. Related family members chose to live in proximity, forming a tight-knit support system. African American slaves, in the absence of traditional family structures, formed surrogate families comprised of single adults and parentless children. Generations of endured hardships and danger forged independent pioneers into communities, each a testament to the resilience and spirit of the people of ‘Between the Rivers.’
As the population grew, iron mining became an important industry in the economy of the communities. The black slave population in the communities was an essential part of the industry, showing Europeans how to make iron tools and implements from skills they learned in their native land, which is now Nigeria, since 500 AD.
Flooding often plagued the many little communities that dotted the banks of the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers. The worst flooding was in 1837, when many homes were destroyed. By then, the Tennessee Valley Authority began planning the building of the Kentucky River Dam to control the flooding.
Through the law of eminent domain, the federal government may acquire land for the good of the people. (Still current and used today). Many people in several communities had to be relocated to make way for the reservoir for the whole region’s good. Some residents were willing; others were reluctant. However, a series of dams brought electricity to isolated rural areas and controlled flooding. Between the Rivers became a wildlife refuge. After the Cumberland River was impounded in 1936, two manmade lakes were formed – Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, with a canal in between. The area is now known as the Land Between the Lakes. The law had to be enacted three more times during the 20th century.
The citizens of Golden Pond and other communities along the riverbanks went through each stage of grief. Some never came to terms with the government’s intrusion. However, it’s important to note that the government’s intervention was not a loss but a gain for all. As one person whose family came from the area explained, the land would have been lost if the government hadn’t intervened. This land is now a National Recreation Area thanks to President Kennedy’s declaration in 1963. Once again, it is a land for all to enjoy, not just a few select landowners, a national treasure.
We Spent 14 Days Relishing Land Between the Lakes
Land Between the Lakes (LBL) was not on our bucket list. Instead, it was a wonderful surprise born out of our quest to determine where we wanted to travel to view the 2024 Solar Eclipse.
After much discussion, we decided to head to Paducah, Kentucky. But where we would land, we didn’t know. After looking at the map and referring to my well-worn copy of Camping in National Forests, I found Land Between the Lakes. It is approximately a 45-minute drive north to Paducah, Kentucky, which was in the path of totality. What a wonderful place to spend time!
Layout of the Land Between the Lakes
LBL is a peninsula situated between Lake Barkley and Kentucky Lake. The peninsula is divided, with Kentucky in the northern part and Tennessee in the south. The North/South Woodland Trail highway cuts through the middle of the peninsula.
Two Welcome Centers are located at LBL’s northern and southern entrances. The Golden Pond Visitor Center is in the middle of LBL.
In case they need something, visitors can obtain services such as fuel, groceries, and other goods at the gateway towns surrounding LBL, such as Grand Rivers, Bentley, Aurora, and Cadiz.
Choosing a Campground
We needed information on finding a campground in the northern area of LBL. Several campsites are located throughout LBL. The staff person explained the three types of campgrounds. If you decide to visit, which I highly recommend, here is a rundown of the camping options.
- RVers needing electricity and water hook-ups at each site can secure a site in campgrounds such as Hillman Ferry. Also, at Hillman Ferry, cabins are available to visitors without an RV or tent. Campsite prices are $22 per night.
- Some campgrounds are considered Basic (dispersed) Camping. You need to get a three-night permit at $10 per person. You can set up your tent, camper, van, or whatever you have in a spot within these sites. At first, we chose this option. We checked out Twin Lakes, Pisgah Point, and Demumbers. All were very nice, with views of the lakes and a boat dock, trash bin, and vault toilets. We were about to settle in a site in Demumbers when a local encouraged us to check out Bingham Ferry Campground. We did.
- This brings us to the Self-Sufficient Campgrounds we chose. These campgrounds do not include any amenities except for a vault toilet and trash bin; however, each site provides cement picnic tables and a campfire ring. These are $10 per night, but we used our America the Beautiful Senior Access Pass and paid $5. Our sight was quiet and serene, and we overlooked the Lake. Much of our time was spent sitting on the water’s edge, watching the wildlife.
Our campsite by the lake
Sunset at the campsite.
There’s lots to do at Land Between the Lakes. Here are some of the main attractions we enjoyed.
Planetarium
After settling into our site the next day, we attended one of the several daily showings at the Planetarium in the Golden Pond Visitors Center. Available is a calendar of rotating events. Each show is $5 per person, but Mike and I could use our Access Pass for half price. We attended the presentation on Totality, which explained a solar eclipse (in preparation for the 2024 Solar Eclipse). After the video, everyone looked at the night sky dotted with stars on the observatory dome. The facilitating staff member described what visitors would see when looking up at the stars at night in LBL. In the lobby, we asked the staff member if we could see the Solar Eclipse from our campsite in LBL. She said we could see 97% of it if we didn’t want to fight the crowds in Paducah. We planned to explore the surrounding area in the eclipse path to see if we could find a spot outside of Paducah to see 100% totality.
Bison/Elk Observation Area
Later that afternoon, we visited the Bison/Elk Observation Area. The brochures described the best times to see the animals: dawn or dusk. You drive through the 3.5-mile area and must remain in a closed vehicle. Warning signs and instructions on the brochures remind visitors that these wild animals can be dangerous if approached. Since the mornings are still cold and I like to sip my coffee, we chose dusk.
We arrived about 5:15 p.m. The entrance gate requires a $10 fee per vehicle. Again, we used our Access Pass and paid $5. Right out of the gate, we saw a small herd of elk.
We encountered many bison and elk as the sun descended into the early evening. These animals are much smaller than the elk and bison in the western part of the United States, and we’ve also noticed this with deer.
Woodlands Nature Station
The Nature Station is a sanctuary for rescued injured animals that cannot survive if returned to the wilderness. The fee to visit is $7 per person, but our price with the Access Pass was half. Besides us, families with children, young adults, and older adults walked through the area, observing the animals with volunteers ready to describe life in the 1800s and answer questions.
Owls
A shy wolf
Cemeteries
For years, residents buried their loved ones in family plots or cemeteries. Therefore, over 200 cemeteries are in LBL. A few are along the North/South Woodland Trail Highway, but you drive a few miles down the unpaved forest service roads to visit most. We visited four of these historical sites while we were here. Markers of individuals from the early 1800s to descendants in the 21st century are honored and remembered. Each cemetery had pavilions that probably held funeral services and the repass. Each pavilion was in various states of repair. Underneath benches, sometimes a podium, tall counter-height tables, and picnic tables were available.
Woodson Chapel is five miles down Forest Service Road 129, almost to Molloy Bay. The site is dedicated to the Methodist chapel and school once located here. Relics of the chapel school and what we assumed was a homestead remain in the community.
Isaac Gray Cemetery is 1.8 miles down Forest Service Road 130. The notable aspect of this cemetery was the number of unmarked graves. Even though their names are not there, several small cement blocks, rocks, and PVC pipe Crosses edging down the hill mark that individuals lived and died here.
Newby Cemetery is 3.6 miles down Forest Service Road 130, crossing Smith Creek. Three signs told us families are still using this cemetery. One was a newly dug grave adorned with recently wilted flowers. Also, several picnic tables were donated in 2022. In addition, newer tombstones for married couples named the deceased spouse’s date of birth and death but only the birth date of the remaining spouse.
The Lee-Dodds Cemetery, near the Pisgah Campground and Star Camp picnic, had the prettiest water view. Those left behind have a heart-healing place to visit the markers of their loved ones.
The Homeplace 1850s Working Farm and Living History Museum
The Homeplace is in the southern portion of LBL, in Tennessee. It is an example of an 1850s middle-class family farm. The staff gave us a map and additional information at the Homeplace Visitor Center. The fee for visiting the farm is $7 per person and half-price with an Access Pass.
First, we walked around the Visitor Center exhibit, which contained several tools, furniture, and original clothing from home farms, as well as storyboards introducing influential individuals who were regional residents.
Walking through the farm, livestock graze in their meadows; gardens are tilled, ready for spring planting. Some of the livestock are rare and endangered breeds. Most of the garden and crops grown are from heirloom seeds.
The staff person at the Visitors Center informed us that we arrived on a good day because volunteers were demonstrating sheep shearing.
Ducks and chickens are free to roam around the farm.
Staff at Visitors Centers are excited to share information. She told us that all the buildings are authentic, original structures, moved from their original site no more than 200 miles away and reassembled on the grounds of the Homeplace.
Volunteers wear period clothing in the buildings and do chores typical of that time and life. Visitors can join the activities or stop and ask questions.
Hiking and Biking
There are many hiking and biking trails throughout LBL. Mike and I rode our bikes on a few. As you traverse the trails, you may encounter remnants of homesteads from abandoned towns.
The Hematite community grew around the Center Furnace. The community was involved in producing raw, blood-red ore into the finished iron product.
Furnace Remnants
Golden Pond Historical Site
On a bike/hike trail from the Golden Pond Visitor Center toward Devil’s Elbow, visitors will pass near the original site of Golden Pond. All that remains of the town are two cement blocks. Storyboards surrounding the blocks tell of the inhabitants, history, and plot explanations of where the buildings stood. A map outlining the town is on the ground between the boulders, etched in cement. Mike and I pulled into the historical marker during our bike ride.
Golden Pond, like other Between the Rivers communities, is a testament to the indomitable spirit of its people. Established in 1848, Golden Pond’s economy was based on timber, iron mining, farming the fertile soil, and moonshining activity. Despite facing numerous setbacks, from fires destroying the town twice to World Wars, Prohibition, and the Great Depression, the town has always risen from the ashes like a phoenix. The townspeople’s unwavering determination and love for their home have driven its survival, a story that will inspire you.
Other things to do around LBL.
Our 14-day stay at LBL was filled with activities, and we still didn’t manage to experience everything. If you’re looking for more (and we might return for them), there’s a plethora of activities waiting for you nearby.
Visit distilleries and learn about the history of moonshine.
Visit the Kentucky Dam Recreation Area. Fishing, boating, and bike riding are popular activities there.
Paducah has a vigorous arts, crafts, and creative culture. I would like to see the Quilter’s Museum.
Charming gateway communities surround LBL, such as Aurora, Bentley, Cadiz, and Grand Rivers. They also have resorts, marinas, hotels, and rentals available if visitors want to explore the area but do not camp.
Grand Rivers was the closest to our campsite, where we went for supplies, groceries, and fuel. It’s also the site of Aunt Patti’s Restaurant and Village. It was crowded. The staff at the Northern Welcome Center told us that the restaurant prepared all their food from scratch. The wait staff wore period costumes from the 1800s. Popular with locals and tourists, you need a reservation. Most are booked a year in advance. The Village includes an inn and many shops.
What we did at site #5 at Birmingham Ferry Campground while not exploring the area.
And:
Play fetch with Snoopy and her ball.
Watch Sarj dig for treasures until you can only see his tail .
Or: Vegetate like Chad.
Lucy, Sarj, Snoopy, and I went for a walk.
I like to take a walk during the day. One afternoon, I leashed up Snoopy and Sarj to come with me. Lucy and Chad were outside hanging out with Mike. Lucy speaks Catish. Mike and I are learning the language. Lucy understands English. Sometimes, Lucy doesn’t need to make a sound, but we know what she is communicating. She looked at me with the dogs leashed up. “What about me?’ Mike hooked her onto another leash, and off we went. At first, she didn’t know exactly what to do, but she watched Snoopy, the leader, and followed along. She was like an old pro on her first leash walk.
The Grand Finale – 2024 Solar Eclipse
Our goal for this trip was to see the 2024 Solar Eclipse. Please stay tuned for blog post 3-2024, describing our experience.